大象APPCity of Gastronomy Ambassadors

Hacienda del Sol chef de cuisine Mateo Cancio聽rehearses his presentation during a training session to be a 大象APPCity of Gastronomy ambassador. Cancio will travel to other countries and talk about the food scene of Tucson.

sent seven Chef Ambassadors around the globe last year, spreading the gospel of Tucson鈥檚 food and food heritage to other UNESCO Cities of Gastronomy.

On Jan. 26, chefs that were part of Tucson鈥檚 first cohort of trained Chef Ambassadors finished their two-year terms when the 大象APPCOG resurrected its pre-pandemic fundraiser 鈥淐hefs on a Global Stage.鈥 The event raises money for the Chef Exchange Fund that covers chefs鈥 travel expenses.

The event also featured two of the 10 incoming Chef Ambassadors 鈥 Mat Cable, chef-owner of and , who helped ambassador Devon Sanner in Parma, Italy, last fall; and Pablo Valencia, chef-owner of , who accompanied Travis Peters, formerly of The Parish, in Macao, China, last June.

Chef Ambassadors pose during an event at Pueblos del Maiz.

The China trip for the International Gastronomy Forum was the farthest the ambassadors traveled and it was the second time since 大象APPlanded the UNESCO designation in 2015 that 大象APPCOG had been invited. Only 30 of the world鈥檚 56 Cities of Gastronomy make the cut, said 大象APPCOG Executive Director Jonathan Mabry.

大象APPstood out, Mabry said, because it is 鈥渙ne of only a few Cities of Gastronomy that really lean into food heritage.鈥

鈥淚t makes a difference,鈥 he said.

Moody Elbarasi pictured in Gaziantep, Turkey.

Tucson鈥檚 food heritage, going back thousands of years and borrowing from our Mexican and Native American roots, is central to the six- to eight-week Chef Ambassador training program that Mabry launched just before the pandemic. The COG had been sending chefs to sister COGs since year two or three of the designation, when they started getting requests from around the globe.

The chefs had some informal training, but the idea was to equip them to be able to represent 大象APPand tell its story, said longtime 大象APPchef , president of the 大象APPCOG board and the architect of the training program. Mabry said he thinks the 大象APPprogram emphasizing the food heritage and history is unique among UNESCO-designated cities.

Casino del Sol baker Shuka Parker, left, talks with 大象APPCity of Gastronomy board president Janos Wilder after a training session to be a TCOG ambassador.

Chefs, sous chefs and pastry chefs are selected based on leadership skills, culinary excellence and creativity, and a demonstrated support for Southern Arizona food producers. They then go through weeks of kitchen demonstrations, taught by Wilder, and classroom instruction on Tucson鈥檚 food heritage products, practices and modern-day uses, led by Mabry.

鈥淓verything we do is to prepare them to take this on the road and represent us well,鈥 said Wilder, a longtime 大象APPrestaurateur and champion of Tucson鈥檚 heritage ingredients.

The goal is that the chefs will be able to talk about Tucson鈥檚 food history and heritage ingredients and convey how that history plays out on today鈥檚 plate. In addition to the kitchen demos, Wilder advises chefs on the practicalities of international travel: what to pack and ship ahead including what things 鈥 from foodstuffs and spices to kitchen equipment 鈥 are likely to be scrutinized by customs officials. Chefs also learn to investigate what ingredients they will need that won鈥檛 be readily available when they land.

Wilder leads the kitchen demonstrations at his downtown Studio Janos that he opened in fall 2023. Chefs are given 15 minutes to prepare the dish, explaining along the way what they are doing and sprinkling in tidbits about Tucson鈥檚 food heritage and scene.

Rod LeDesma pictured in Merida, Mexico.

Training is wrapped up last month for the second cohort of Chef Ambassadors: In addition to Cable and Valencia, Adolfo 鈥淎ris鈥 Cabrera of ; Mateo Cancio of ; Susan Fulton and Mary Steiger of ; ; Jenna Grigalauski of ; Robert Kowalske of ; and Shuka Parker of .

Over the past couple of weeks, Wilder and Mabry have been conducting the final kitchen demonstrations with the incoming Chef Ambassadors. At the studio in January, Cancio, chef de cuisine at Hacienda del Sol Resort, and Parker, a baker and pastry chef at Casino del Sol, made their final presentations while the cameras rolled.

Cancio came with colorful produce from the resort鈥檚 garden, including peppers, greens and citrus. In a clay bowl, he poured flour and water for the scratch-made blue and white corn tortillas; a plate next to the bowl had a dozen or so balls of dough ready to be pressed and a plate of pre-pressed tortillas in parchment paper. Several of the tortillas stuck to the paper when he went to demonstrate how to cook them in a preheated pan.

Lesson learned: Pressing tortillas takes so little time that there鈥檚 no need to prepare in advance unless you are cooking for a large group, the veteran James Beard Award-winning Wilder advised him.

Hacienda del Sol chef de cuisine Mateo Cancio wrote a script with talking points for his presentation during a training session to be a 大象APPCity of Gastronomy ambassador.

During his presentation, Cancio consulted notes outside of the camera鈥檚 view to pepper his presentation with details of Tucson鈥檚 food heritage and Hacienda del Sol鈥檚 on-site garden.

In their post-demonstration observations, Wilder and Mabry advised Cancio to put more emphasis on Tucson鈥檚 heritage ingredients and offered tips on addressing an audience while cooking.

Casino del Sol baker Shuka Parker talks about saguaro fruit during a training session to be a 大象APPCity of Gastronomy ambassador.

Parker, who moved to the U.S. from her native Japan around 20 years ago, brought a bowl of small dates, a small bag of White Sonoran Wheat flour and ramekins filled with other ingredients she uses to make date empanadas. She also brought a half dozen golden brown empanadas.

Her discussion included personal details about discovering heritage ingredients, including the flour, which she said is her favorite for making breads and pastries.

In their comments afterward, Mabry and Wilder emphasized the need to incorporate more details about Tucson鈥檚 food history and culture and offered advice on how she could demonstrate the baking process in the allotted time.

Parker took notes as they spoke and nodded at their suggestions, and when they were finished, she passed the bowl of treats around the room.

Lesson learned: Parker鈥檚 date empanadas were impeccable.

Casino del Sol baker Shuka Parker made empanadas with a date filling for her presentation during a training session to be a 大象APPCity of Gastronomy ambassador.


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Contact reporter Cathalena E. Burch at cburch@tucson.com. On Bluesky @Starburch